Get Some
General => Technology & Hardware => Topic started by: Chromozone98 on June 16, 2013, 06:48:08 pm
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http://www.playtech.co.nz/afawcs0139235/CATID=375/ID=17935/SID=914273182/productdetails.html
http://www.playtech.co.nz/afawcs0139235/CATID=756/ID=17472/SID=916816678/productdetails.html
http://www.playtech.co.nz/afawcs0139235/CATID=506/ID=19368/SID=903495414/productdetails.html
http://www.playtech.co.nz/afawcs0139235/CATID=599/ID=17346/SID=493545425/productdetails.html
http://www.playtech.co.nz/afawcs0139235/CATID=182/ID=16848/SID=734138470/productdetails.html
http://www.playtech.co.nz/afawcs0139235/CATID=274/ID=19500/SID=872269149/productdetails.html
http://www.playtech.co.nz/afawcs0139235/CATID=235/ID=15034/SID=324860507/productdetails.html
http://www.playtech.co.nz/afawcs0139235/CATID=566/ID=20473/SID=199186811/productdetails.html
http://www.playtech.co.nz/afawcs0139235/CATID=564/ID=396/SID=160342863/productdetails.html TOTAL: $1355
Deleted other posts to avoid confusion as to which build i was going with. Already have optical drive, ram and win8. Will this be able to run BF4 on medium/high settings?
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About as easy as plugging in USB devices.
Just don't mess up the thermal paste and make sure you're not statically charged when you do stuff.
Heaps of help on the youtubes these days if you're unsure about anything.
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make sure you're not statically charged when you do stuff..
On that note:
Build your PC on a table or workbench, not on the carpet/couch/etc.
First thing to do , is install the PSU in the case, then plug the PSU in and make sure the power is on to it. The metal case of the PSU will then be grounded, and this in turn will ground the case, so every time you touch the case you'll be grounded. Then (assuming you don't have a static strap.. they are like $15 from Jaycar) touch the case before you touch any components, and where possible keep touching the case with one hand whilst working on stuff with the other. It's not perfect anti-static protection by any means, but it beats no anti static precautions by a mile, and full ESD precautions are way too pricey for home builders.
IMHO build order should be (this is experience/preference, there is no "you must do it this way" here)
PSU into Case
CPU into motherboard
RAM into motherboard
Motherboard into Case
Thermal paste onto CPU
HSF onto CPU
HDD into Case
DVD into Case
GPU into motherboard
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A 15 year old with patience, a low-$$-per-hour-opportunity cost, and small fingers would be perfectly well suited to building a PC.
Some thoughts:
* A large table in a well lit area will save on frustration.
* Download up to date drivers and manuals in advance and at the very least spend five minutes reading the manual for the motherboard before you begin.
* Do it in a house that has another PC with internet access, so you can google solutions when something inevitably goes wrong.
* Once you have the motherboard in place, start plugging in the power and tidying up the power cords.
* Do a power on test once you have the heatsink in place and see if it will spin up the CPU and system fans. If you've stuffed something up, you'll have less to remove/troubleshoot.
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See if you can get the Asus 7850s, they can get up to 7950 performance when OCed. Asus was lazy and just stuck a full size two slot DCII cooler on them, I have one and have gone from stock clocks of 860/1200 to 1350/1500 on my better card.
EDIT: If you can't get the first version because of the price the V2 will do fine, it just seems the first gen were able to reach higher clocks and the second gen stays cooler. There was also a slight change in the ports.
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Don't lose the little screws when you are building it, put them in something so they don't roll off the table and get lost. This always happens to me when I used to fiddle around with my computers. Some good advice up there^^^
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Get those elongated tweezers for picking up screws, extremely useful. Don't try to jam things in too hard either and end up breaking ports, there are a lot of fail pics of that.
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Looks like bot to me.
Why you answer?
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Posted from NZ IP (albeit only us mods can see that) , link isn't to a spam website. Plus the post sounds like it was written by a kiwi teenager as opposed to some guy in a 3rd world country.
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Also the 98 in his user name could be referencing to the year he was born (1998) which would line up with him being 15.
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Why he no reply?
Him posted link, collected 10cents, maybe that why.
Keen to be proven wrong btw.
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Bots don't edit posts.
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sorry guys, busy doing alot of assignments and totally forgot about this thread.
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Also the 98 in his user name could be referencing to the year he was born (1998) which would line up with him being 15.
correct
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You should post those questions in OP in another post, it's easier to reply to.
ExtremePC, not tooooo bad, but definitely nowhere near the best.
CPU is fine for very casual gaming
7850 is perfect, don't get a GTX650.
The CPU won't OC anyway, so no you won't need a CPU HSF
You've left out a mouse and keyboard.
You won't be able to run black ops 2 at "good" graphics and 60FPS with any rig below around the 1800 mark.
I dare say, it could be better looking at second hand parts. You'll get a lot more bang for buck.
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This is the build i have come up with so far
COMPUTER RIG
PSU http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=158_363&products_id=7190
CPU http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=107_353&products_id=6476
GPU http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=124_430_433&products_id=6922
FAN http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164_502_504&products_id=6891
PROCESSOR http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_354_378&products_id=6116
OPTICAL DRIVE http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=129_133&products_id=7238
HDD http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=120_122&products_id=5808
MONITOR http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=139_174&products_id=6670
CASE http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=307_313&products_id=4654
THERMAL PASTE http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164_448&products_id=4938
WINDOWS 8 http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=156_345&products_id=6801
RAM http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=117_219&products_id=7331
SPEAKERS http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=146_523_524&products_id=4425
MOUSE & KEYBOARD http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=138_337_539&products_id=5991
This rig is around $1300 including gst and shipping. Is this a good build?
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First thing to do , is install the PSU in the case, then plug the PSU in and make sure the power is on to it. The metal case of the PSU will then be grounded, and this in turn will ground the case, so every time you touch the case you'll be grounded.
I've read mixed things about this. So is your advice it to have the PSU plugged in while working on the PC? And have the power at the wall on?
I usually keep it unplugged, because of the scary mains electricity, but if it's unplugged it not really earthed.
What about plugging it in the wall, but leaving the wall switch off, in that case is it still earthed?
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I've read mixed things about this. So is your advice it to have the PSU plugged in while working on the PC? And have the power at the wall on?
I usually keep it unplugged, because of the scary mains electricity, but if it's unplugged it not really earthed.
What about plugging it in the wall, but leaving the wall switch off, in that case is it still earthed?
In theory the earth pin isn't switched and its always earthed. My personal preference is to have the power on, as a way of ensuring it's plugged in and powers flowing, but it's not really necessary. Having it unplugged means you ain't grounded, and you ain't protecting shit from static.
PS: mains voltage isn't that scary. I've been zapped a fair few times (AT PSU's before ATX was around, has a physical switch at the front of the case, with 240v running through it, and it wasn't uncommon to accidentally short the switch contacts with your hand) , doesn't really hurt any worse than a good hit from a paintball or a tattoo or something.
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Volts for the jolts,
amps for the deaths.
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Volts for the jolts,
Current'll kill ya.
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Volts for the jolts,
Currants for the scones
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Some other advice - be gently with all your pins and connectors - Bent pins aren't fun.
Read the names on the Mobo - they tell you what goes where.
double check all your cables and cords
Have a bootable OS disk ready
As someone mentioned - Drivers on a USB stick and also do it where you have Google as an option if something goes wrong.
Apart from that - should be fine - just be patient and read the manuals first.
if all really goes to poo - you can probably ply one of the members with Beer to help you out
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Yeah, read the motherboard manual if you haven't done it before...
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Do you really need an optical drive?
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Do you really need an optical drive?
For the sake of $40 in a tower, why not.
My MPB doesn't have one and its not an issue, at least with this laptop, but yeah, things are really very quickly going the way of being totally digital.
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Volts for the jolts,
Currants for the scones
Volts for the jots,
Amps for the death.
Bent pins aren't fun.
Read that too fast :<
if all really goes to poo - you can probably ply one of the members with Beer to help you out
Not at 15 one can't.
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In theory the earth pin isn't switched and its always earthed. My personal preference is to have the power on, as a way of ensuring it's plugged in and powers flowing, but it's not really necessary. Having it unplugged means you ain't grounded, and you ain't protecting shit from static.
Earth pin (the bottom one) is never switched, Only phase (Looking at the female end, the top left one) is opened or closed.
I wouldn't work on a pc live simply because you might do more damage than static will.
Also on top of all that, I wouldn't take electricity that lightly (This is aimed at everyone). If you happen to get zapped and it goes through your heart, You can quite easily die as it upsets the rhythm of your heart.
Just thought I'd mention that, When people say things like "It's only a little zap, don't worry about it", Makes me worry ;)
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I wouldn't work on a pc live simply because you might do more damage than static will.
How exactly?
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How exactly?
Because you could create a short between the mains electricity, and the computer components. Mains current flowing through your motherboard (and your body) is going to do far more damage then then static.
There is not point to having it switched own, so why do it?
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I personally like to put on a wollen jumper and then roll around on a synthetic carpet for a couple of hours before building my rigs.
The extra voltage helps with my 1337 overclocks....
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I sit in the bath while working on my rig. The water and soap keeps the case clean of dust.
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Because you could create a short between the mains electricity, and the computer components. Mains current flowing through your motherboard (and your body) is going to do far more damage then then static.
There is not point to having it switched own, so why do it?
I've been working in IT for about 17 years, the vast majority of that time has involved building or fixing PC's, and I've never once seen, or heard of, mains current getting through the PSU into the pc components. I'm no electrical engineer so I won't say it's impossible, but i find it highly unlikely.
As to why do it, most modern mobos, and many PSU's have a visible indicator (such as a LED) when power is flowing. Visible indicator = visual reminder that yes your case is grounded.
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I've been working in IT for about 17 years, the vast majority of that time has involved building or fixing PC's, and I've never once seen, or heard of, mains current getting through the PSU into the pc components. I'm no electrical engineer so I won't say it's impossible, but i find it highly unlikely.
As to why do it, most modern mobos, and many PSU's have a visible indicator (such as a LED) when power is flowing. Visible indicator = visual reminder that yes your case is grounded.
I'm merely a humble electrical apprentice, So what I say isn't law.
I'll rewrite what I said, as it's no longer 12:30am, so i'm able to think a little bit better.
One thing it depends on, is if the PCU is an isolating transformer or not. I doubt 230volts are directly supplied to each individual part, but hey, i'm not an IT technician, or an electrical engineer. Anyway, if it is on an isolating transformer, the only way to get a shock will be if the secondary side (the computer side) of the transformer is earthed (I should hope not), Or if you make a path between positive and negative. That being said, If your left hand touched positive, you were touching a computer part, and that computer part was some how linked back to negative, you would send voltage through that said part. I don't know how many volts are in the average static charge that you pick up, and I also don't know how many volts the computer uses. So it's up to you to decide if it would be harmful for that part or not ;)
If your left hand was touching positive, and your right hand was touching negative, You'd be sending voltage directly through your arms, through your heart, and back through the other arm. That being said, if it ISN'T on an isolating transformer, Touching something with your left hand only has a chance of sending electricity through your heart, down your body, and out to earth at your feet. Just making sure no one thinks its okay as long as you only use one hand.
The LED, Being a sparky, You always test. You wouldn't trust a light that's off to assume that power is off. Sure, the LED of the motherboard is probably brand new and working, and is probably a good way to tell if power is on, but I wouldn't trust it to tell if power is off.
Also, I made a uh-oh in my original post, I said
Earth pin (the bottom one) is never switched, Only Phase AND NEUTRAL (Looking at the female end, the top left one (phase) and top right (neutral)) are opened or closed.
Just to clarify, both phase and neutral are opened / closed when turning a power socket on or off. Although neutral is connected to earth at the switchboard, It may still contain power, It shouldn't, but hey.
Not trying to stir shit here, Just like I said, I don't want people thinking a shock is completely harmless. I'm such a caring guy, aren't I? :P
Also
Visible indicator = visual reminder that yes your case is grounded.
What if the earth pin was broken?
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I doubt 230volts are directly supplied to each individual part, but hey, i'm not an IT technician, or an electrical engineer.
230 volts is only supplied to the PSU, which is a sealed unit (yes you can actually open them, but you wouldn't ever do that under anything like normal circumstances). It takes your 230v AC and turns it into nice smoothed out 12v, 5volt and 3.3 volt DC. The only dangerous voltages are within the sealed PSU enclosure, and I'm fairly sure things within the PSU would blow up spectacularly( or blow the internal fuses) and cause a break in the circuit before a dangerous voltage could get through.
If we were talking about working within an open PSU with 230v going into it, then HELL NO, but us IT guys just bin damaged PSU's and whack a new one in. Not many people would ever be poking around inside one (not that I haven't done it.. but not bloody plugged in!)
Not trying to stir shit here, Just like I said, I don't want people thinking a shock is completely harmless. I'm such a caring guy, aren't I? :P
Also
What if the earth pin was broken?
It's a shockingly good time lol.. nah your right any shock from mains has the potential to be fatal. But you've probably got substantially better odds of winning lotto than being fatally electrocuted by a PC PSU, even a faulty one.
If earth is broken your fucked anyways :-)
*edit* did a bit of digging, and yes if your ground is bad, and things have gone spectacularly wrong within the PSU, you could potentially get a fatal shock, but it would literally be a freak accident, so far from the norm it's not funny. I'll take my chances :-)
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Yusss, battle of the electrogeeks!
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Yusss, battle of the electrogeeks!
I don't see whats wrong with talking about current affairs.
What lias said
Fair enough and completely agree. I also agree that chances of every thing in the book fucking up are slim, but it's drummed into apprentices that everything in the book has already fucked up. ;)
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I once got electrocuted with 230v and it literally killed me (but I lived to tell the tale). Since then, I've made it a rule to minimise the chances of getting an electric shock - principally this means working on electricky things with the power disconnected.
To mitigate the static issue, I do absolutely nothing and that strategy has worked every time!
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I once got electrocuted with 230v and it literally killed me (but I lived to tell the tale). Since then, I've made it a rule to minimise the chances of getting an electric shock - principally this means working on electricky things with the power disconnected.
To mitigate the static issue, I do absolutely nothing and that strategy has worked every time!
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guys can we please get back to the topic... make another thread if you want to talk about another thing.
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We are on topic.
Welcome to ICONZ Arena, hosted by IHUG.
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This is the build i have come up with so far
COMPUTER RIG
PSU [url]http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=158_363&products_id=7190[/url]
CPU [url]http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=107_353&products_id=6476[/url]
GPU [url]http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=124_430_433&products_id=6922[/url]
FAN [url]http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164_502_504&products_id=6891[/url]
PROCESSORMOTHERBOARD [url]http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_354_378&products_id=6116[/url]
OPTICAL DRIVE [url]http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=129_133&products_id=7238[/url]
HDD [url]http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=120_122&products_id=5808[/url]
MONITOR [url]http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=139_174&products_id=6670[/url]
CASE [url]http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=307_313&products_id=4654[/url]
THERMAL PASTE [url]http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164_448&products_id=4938[/url]
WINDOWS 8 [url]http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=156_345&products_id=6801[/url]
RAM [url]http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=117_219&products_id=7331[/url]
SPEAKERS [url]http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=146_523_524&products_id=4425[/url]
MOUSE & KEYBOARD [url]http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=138_337_539&products_id=5991[/url]
This rig is around $1300 including gst and shipping. Is this a good build?
If you're looking to save money:
You don't need thermal paste or a fan, CPU will come with them.
You don't need Windows.
You don't need speakers, get some good quality headphones. You should probably do this anyway.
You don't really need an optical drive in this day and age, but if you have old discs that you think you'll be making lots of use of, then probably go for it.
I don't keep up with the play, but it looks like you've got some higher quality stuff with some mediocre stuff. Choose one or the other. It looks like you're aiming for mid/low end with the i5, so I'd say just stick with the mid rage goods all round. Dropping the extra peripherals above should save you a fair bit.
That said, I'd look at a decent mouse. Nothing beats a good mouse.
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What pyro said and switch that i5 for an i3 and a better GPU
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You don't need Windows.
You dont? We going linux here?
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You dont? We going linux here?
su
root@Linux: rm -rf /
?????
Profit
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You dont? We going linux here?
No. When was the last time YOU bought windows?
Go 'linux' or go home.
Especially because the only windows you can buy is 8.
I recommend 'linux' 7.
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No. When was the last time YOU bought windows?
Go 'linux' or go home.
Especially because the only windows you can buy is 8.
I recommend 'linux' 7.
I actually recommend Ubuntu - its Friendly ish linux
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Dont need linux guys, already got win8
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also should i get amd radeon 7870 or gtx 660?
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I actually recommend Ubuntu - its Friendly ish linux
Nah, no way.
If you're actually serious, and we're talking new users: LinuxMint.
Never ever Ubuntu, not even once.
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Dont need linux guys, already got win8
Why are you trying to buy it again then?
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im not?
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Muhahaha, trying to trick an old hand eh?
Sif.
guys can we please get back to the topic... make another thread if you want to talk about another thing.
You can't delete my quotes of your deleted post.
http://www.getsome.co.nz/showthread.php?85609-Building-my-first-computer-need-help&p=1527438&viewfull=1#post1527438
WINDOWS 8 [url]http://www.extremepc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=156_345&products_id=6801[/url]
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Do you really need an optical drive?
For playing yo music CDz!
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For playing yo music CDz!
*cough*Mp3*cough*
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*cough*Mp3*cough*
My portable CD player has 10 second anti-shock. I can drive over a speed bump and my beats wont skip.
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*cough*Mp3*cough*
It's fine if its transcoded properly and the bitrate isn't below 160Kbps, CDs are lossless though.
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It's fine if its transcoded properly and the bitrate isn't below 160Kbps, CDs are lossless though.
This. Almost all the music i get from winmx is 64Kbps. CDs for me thanks.
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My 56k modem humms along, downloaded a song in 10minutes!
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It's fine if its transcoded properly and the bitrate isn't below 160Kbps, CDs are lossless though.
Fucking lolwut.
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Fucking lolwut.
http://www.whatinterviewprep.com/
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Fucking lolwut.
http://www.whatinterviewprep.com/
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It's fine if its transcoded properly and the bitrate isn't below 160Kbps, CDs are lossless though.
You've got to be trolling.
This. Almost all the music i get from winmx is 64Kbps. CDs for me thanks.
Winmx is still going? lawl
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I'm not, I can tell the difference between 128Kb/s and 160Kb/s in a DBT.
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ooooo rlyyyyyy??
Everyone is being sarcastic because they believe 160kbps is too low. Just fyi.
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[url]http://www.whatinterviewprep.com/[/url]
I'm sorry, I couldn't hear you over the sound of that almighty derp you just emitted.
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ooooo rlyyyyyy??
Everyone is being sarcastic because they believe 160kbps is too low. Just fyi.
He must be deaf. Or have terrible speakers / headphones
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can someone explain to me why 160kbps is bad?
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It's not bad. It's just not ideal, making it unsuitable for audiophiles.
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It's quite lossy, you'll definitely notice a different if you have the same song in 160 vs v0 or 320 (or FLAC)
If you don't notice, you're deaf.
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mmmmmmmm FLAC
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i roll at 64k
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Bell...
What are we going to do with you?
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Bell...
What are we going to do with you?
I don't know about you guys,
but anything above 1100 baud is breaking the speed limit
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i roll at 64k
I give it 2 days before pyro starts listening to 48kbps just to be hip.